MANILA: In Tawi-Tawi, the southernmost and predominantly Muslim province of the Philippines, culinary traditions are deeply embedded in the coastal region’s marine-based economy. During Ramadan, they are on full display as iftars turn into hearty feasts of the freshest and most diverse seafood.
Located in the Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao, Tawi-Tawi, consists of a group of islands in the Sulu Archipelago, near the maritime borders of Malaysia and Indonesia.
Unlike other provinces in the region, where sweets and meat dishes dominate the iftar table, Tawi-Tawi sets itself apart with shellfish, sea urchins, crabs, algae and sea grapes — edible seaweed that looks like tiny green grapes and is sometimes called “green caviar” or “sea caviar.”
Most of these are typically enjoyed with rice or siyanglag, which is a savory, slightly sweet side dish made from roasted grated cassava mixed with grated coconut.
“That’s the most common iftar here in Tawi-Tawi,” said Laila Aripin, a resident of Bongao, the province’s capital.
“The abundance of seafood during Ramadan is very unique here in Tawi-Tawi compared to other Bangsamoro provinces. Usually, for iftar, we usually boil it or eat raw. Shellfish are just boiled, and we dip them in vinegar or any preferred sauce.”
Sea urchins are the main staple and one of the cheapest, with a portion costing about 35 US cents. Served fresh, they are known as teheh-teheh and are usually accompanied by siyanglag.
Another favorite urchin dish is okoh-okoh, where they are cooked in coconut water with seasoned rice inside.
“Sea urchins are twice as cheap during Ramadan. If you visit the market these days, you’ll find sea urchins and many other harvests from the sea. Some families also serve lobster, especially those who can afford it, particularly in eastern Tawi-Tawi where people cultivate lobsters,” Kin Usman, from the Bangsamoro Commission for the Preservation of Cultural Heritage, told Arab News.
“It’s really a seafood feast during Ramadan.”
The availability of sea products in the market is also linked to the supply from the Badjao, an indigenous, predominantly Muslim ethnic group known for their expertise in fishing — a central aspect of their traditional livelihoods. According to Usman, during Ramadan, more people want to purchase from them, as a gesture of community self-help.
“You’ll often see our Badjao brothers and sisters selling (seafood), which is why people like us, who are fasting, tend to buy more,” he said. “The supply is truly abundant.”
But the preference for seafood is also related to traditional ways of living, which the older generation tries to revive during Ramadan, a period that is always more reflective.
“When they fast, they tend to look for their original ways of living. They prefer the original foods, their staple foods. Seafood and sea urchins were their staple foods back then,” Usman said.
“Eventually, it was passed down, and it became a norm that during Ramadan there is always seafood on the table.”
