A Christian town in Syria keeps the biblical language of Aramaic alive. But it fears for its future

MAALOULA: Church bells echoed across the rocky slopes of this ancient Syrian town on a cold Sunday morning. But few families remained.
Maaloula is one of the world’s few places where residents still speak Aramaic, the language that Jesus is believed to have used. The town is also home to Syria’s two oldest active monasteries. But since the fall of former President Bashar Assad in an insurgent offensive late last year, some residents fear their future is precarious.
After a few dozen people attended Divine Liturgy at the Church of Saint George, some residents sat in its courtyard and spoke of looting and harassment that they believe were targeted at their religious minority.
Father Jalal Ghazal said he woke one morning in January to a loud sound and ran outside to find streams of red liquid. He immediately feared the kind of targeted killing that occurred during the country’s 13-year civil war.
Instead, he discovered that some people had broken into apartments where clergy lived, vandalized them and threw bags of wine bottles from a balcony.
Many Christians in Syria felt they were collectively accused during the long conflict of siding with Assad, who came from the small Alawite sect and portrayed himself as the protector of minorities.
Residents of Christian-majority Maaloula, about 40 miles (60 kilometers) northeast of Damascus, sent a letter last month to Syria’s new Islamist government under former insurgent leader Ahmad Al-Sharaa, who has promised to protect religious and ethnic minorities.
“We want the guaranteed safe return of the Christians of Maaloula,” it read. “Maaloula is a red line. We will not let anyone encroach on its culture, heritage and sanctities.”
Nothing has changed since then, and the clergy of Maaloula hope for a chance to speak with authorities.
Maaloula still bears the scars of war. What it went through over a decade ago made global headlines and cast a light on Syria’s minorities at a time when anti-government rebels largely became more extremist.
In September 2013, rebels including Al-Qaeda-linked extremists took over the town. About two-thirds of Maaloula’s estimated 3,300 residents fled while fighters abducted 12 nuns.
The nuns were later freed for ransom, and Assad’s forces took back the town, banishing some Muslim residents who were accused of supporting armed opposition groups.
But since Assad’s fall, Maaloula’s Christians said some of those people have returned and carried out acts of vengeance including looting and vandalism. No one has been arrested.
Christians say they have lived in peace with local Muslims and that the perpetrators are unfairly targeting them for what Assad did.
“There are no guarantees,” the priest, Ghazal, said. “What we have to do is to try to reduce these incidents from happening.”
No police officers have been seen in the town recently. All the weapons and munitions in Maaloula’s police station were looted in the celebratory chaos following Assad’s fall.
Sameera Thabet was among many residents who fled that night to Damascus. “We were living in fear, wondering if we were going to get slaughtered again,” she said. “But the next day, we came back after we heard that our houses were being looted.”
Already, the war had left bullet holes in religious symbols and artifacts. Paintings and mosaics of Jesus and other Christian figures had been damaged and defaced.
Now residents and clergymen hope that Syria’s new leaders will protect them and their efforts to pass down Christian tradition and the Aramaic language. Many people who had fled the town have not returned.
Maaloula’s church officials have asked Al-Sharaa’s government for more security. In late December, some security forces came from the capital during the Christmas holiday to protect the Christians who decorated homes and lit a tree in the town square.
“They didn’t stay long. They came for two or three days then left,” a dejected-looking Ghazal said. “But our voices were heard.”
On a summit overlooking the town, Father Fadi Bargeel of the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus lit a candle before examining the long-damaged ruins.
The church overlooks the abandoned remains of a luxury hotel that became a de facto military base for armed rebels.
Bargeel said he’s trying to look to the future. He wants to encourage more people, especially children, to learn Aramaic or become more fluent.
“The moment a child is a born, the Aramaic language would be spoken at home.” he said. “When we started going to school as children, we didn’t know Arabic.” Now the language is mainly taught at home and is spoken more widely by older generations.
Though the town is largely empty, remaining residents try to carry on.
The Christmas tree still stood in the square. A few children fed stray dogs and cats loitering by a bakery.
Thabet said she trusts in God that their fate will be better. Unlike some residents, she has faith that Syria’s new leaders will make the country a civil state that’s inclusive of her and other Christians.
“God who put us on this land will protect us,” she said.