A look into women's clothing during the First Saudi State

RIYADH: Throughout the First Saudi State, women’s garments were signifiers of cultural identity and regional traditions.

According to Saudipedia, women’s clothing in the First Saudi State varied by region, influenced by local resources, climate and cultural traditions. Each area developed distinct styles, materials and designs that reflected its social customs and environment.

In the central region, women often wore al-Mukhnaq, a sheer silk covering made of chiffon or tulle, sewn completely except for an opening for the face. Married women typically covered their heads with al-Ghadfah — a light tulle shawl also known as al-Munaykhel — or opted for al-Ghatwah, a black fabric that covered the entire face. Another common garment was the burqa, a face covering that left an opening for the eyes and was sometimes adorned with decorative elements.

For outerwear, the abaya was a staple, made from coarse wool and designed in a rectangular cut that draped over the shoulders. Unlike modern abayas, it had no sleeves but included small hand openings at its ends. The term abaya was sometimes used interchangeably with bisht, a traditional cloak.

“Bisht Al-Barqa is one of the types of bishts used by men in the region. The people of the central region, Al-Aridh and Diriyah used to call the abaya a bisht, whether a man or a woman wore it,” Laila Al-Bassam, a traditional Arab costumes and textiles expert, told Arab News in a 2023 interview.

The abaya had many variations, including the Qilani abaya, Ma’simah abaya, Dufat al-Mahoud abaya, Fisol abaya, and Murshidah abaya. Indoors, women commonly wore al-Maqta’ or al-Daraa, long, wide garments with fitted sleeves that narrowed at the wrist. These dresses were often embroidered with gold and silver zari threads, sequins, or intricate patterns, highlighting the craftsmanship and artistry of the time.

Saudipedia states that women in the eastern region favored garments made from fine fabrics such as silk and lightweight cotton. One of the most distinctive pieces was the al-Malf’a, a black rectangular fabric that was wrapped around the face and shoulders, sometimes secured with a metal piece known as al-Rubayi. This fabric varied in weight depending on the season, with lighter versions preferred in warmer months. The region was also known for its elaborate embroidery, with clothing often featuring intricate stitching and embellishments that reflected influences from nearby trade routes.

In the western region, according to Saudipedia, women’s attire reflected the area’s connections to international markets, particularly through the Red Sea. Fabrics such as brocade, silk and velvet were popular among wealthier women, while cotton was more commonly worn for everyday use. Many garments were adorned with detailed embroidery, lacework, and zari threading, reflecting the cultural exchange between the Arabian Peninsula and surrounding regions. The layering of garments was common, with women wearing multiple pieces to achieve a distinctive and elegant silhouette.

In the southern region, the influence of the mountainous terrain and tribal traditions played a significant role in clothing styles. Women often wore garments made from thick, durable fabrics to protect against the colder temperatures of higher altitudes. Embroidery was a key feature, with intricate geometric patterns symbolizing tribal identity. The use of bold colors, particularly red and blue, was prevalent, adding vibrancy to the garments.

In the northern region, the climate and Bedouin lifestyle influenced women’s clothing choices. Practicality was emphasized, with garments designed for mobility and protection from harsh weather conditions. Women wore long, flowing robes made from wool or heavy cotton, often adorned with subtle embroidery. Head coverings were essential, with styles varying between tribes. The al-Shilah and al-Sayf were commonly worn as protection from the sun while maintaining modesty.

Clothing not only served practical purposes but also conveyed “social status, marital status and tribal affiliation,” according to Saudipedia. The diversity of styles across the regions reflected the rich heritage and craftsmanship of the time, with many traditional elements still influencing Saudi fashion today.