Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
Fashion designer Elie Saab poses with models after the Elie Saab Spring Summer 2018 show as part of Paris Fashion Week in Jan 2018. (Getty Images)
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Updated 07 November 2024
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Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase

Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
  • Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career

DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship. 

“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.  

To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025. 

“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”  

Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison. 




Carolina Mendes, Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, Elie Saab Jr, Designer Elie Saab and Carine Roitfeld attends the Elie Saab Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2024. (Getty Images)

Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity. 

In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”  




Claudine Saab, designer Elie Saab, Jennifer Lopez and Elie Saab Jr pose at the backstage prior to the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show. (Getty Images) 

“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.” 

Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery. 

“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.” 

Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.  




Halle Berry accepting her 2002 Best Actress Oscar in an Elie Saab gown. (AFP)

“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.” 

“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row. 


A celebration of Saudi Arabia’s artisanal heritage 

A celebration of Saudi Arabia’s artisanal heritage 
Updated 17 January 2025
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A celebration of Saudi Arabia’s artisanal heritage 

A celebration of Saudi Arabia’s artisanal heritage 
  • The Ministry of Culture has designated 2025 as The Year of Handicrafts. Here, Arab News highlights some of the Kingdom’s most significant traditional crafts 

Al-Khous 

While palm trees are famed for providing dates, which play such a significant role in traditional Khaleeji hospitality, the plants themselves are equally important in Arabic heritage. The tree trunks and leaves were commonly used to create temporary or permanent accommodation, and Al-Khous — the weaving of palm fronds — is one of the oldest regional handicrafts. Bedouins would use the technique to create baskets, bowls, mats, tablecloths, brooms, and bags to be carried by their camels. The palm leaves are dried out in the sun, then cut (to ensure all thorns are removed) and soaked before being dyed, if required, and then sewn together. It’s a painstaking process, that requires great attention to detail and a steady hand.  

Bisht  

This traditional long cloak, traditionally made from wool, was originally worn by Bedouins in winter, but is now an important part of the regional wardrobe for special occasions including weddings, graduations, and Eid. These days, most bishts are machine-made, and a high-quality, hand-tailored bisht is seen as something of a status symbol, having become the formal wear for politicians and other high-ranking individuals in the Gulf and beyond. 

Al-Ahsa, in Saudi Arabia’s Eastern Province is renowned for its bisht tailoring, and many of the products are known by the names of the families who have made them for generations, including the Al-Qattan, Al-Kharas, Al-Mahdi, and Al-Bagli. Each tailor has their own thread (zari) design. 

Speaking to Arab News a few years ago, one Al-Ahsa tailor, Abu Salem, said: “Black bishts with gold stitching are the most popular. In the early Nineties, new colors were introduced to the bisht market. Blue, grey and maroon are mostly worn by the younger generation. The older generation sticks to the traditional black, brown and cream.  

“Tailoring bishts is an art that requires accuracy and skill. The gold embroidery requires patience and takes many hours,” he continued. “Hand-making one of these bishts could take from 80 to 120 hours and four tailors, each with one specific task.” 

Sadu weaving 

This ancient tribal craft dates back centuries. Bedouin Sadu weavers would create tightly spun tent awnings, rugs and more in a variety of colored patterns for their tribes using dyed wool, hair or fur woven on a floor loom. These days, Sadu patterns are commonly seen on clothing and interior décor. Speaking to Arab News in 2021, Mohammed Khoja, founder of clothing brand Hindamme, said that Sadu and its range of patterns “reflects an element of storytelling because it says so much about the livelihoods of the early Arabs. It comes in many forms in various colors, so it’s incredibly inspiring. I knew that I wanted to reference it in my designs. I wanted to reflect its beauty in a more contemporary format.” 

Dr. Delayel Al-Qahtani, director of the studies and research department at Atharna, a social enterprise dedicated to Arabian culture and handicrafts, told Arab News: “Al-Sadu is a craft that requires innovative skills and a lot of effort, as the weaver has to work hard to transform the raw material into something new. It is an intricate craft that requires precise hand movements. The final product is always a beautiful design.”  

Henna tattooing 

The practice of applying henna — a reddish-brown dye made from dried, powdered leaves of the henna tree — to the body was recently added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List, thanks in large part to the efforts of Saudi Arabia’s Heritage Commission. Henna has been used to dye skin, hair and fingernails since for millennia, dating back at least to the time of the ancient Egyptians.  

A report from the Saudi Press Agency at the time henna was added to the UNESCO list stated: “Henna has great cultural significance in Saudi Arabia, with the art mastered by women and passed down through generations. It represents ‘joy and optimism’ and is a social tradition that strengthens community bonds.” 

Pottery 

Midianite pottery dating back more than 1,500 years has been discovered in northwestern Saudi Arabia, and it’s clear that pottery has a long and distinguished history in the Gulf in general. Cooking pots, cups and utensils are among the most common items crafted by traditional potters, and clay pots, especially, play a vital role in the region’s culinary heritage. As a recent Saudi Press Agency report stated: “The slow and even distribution of heat enhances the dishes cooked in (them), such as madhbi and mandi.” Local authorities in Jazan and other regions have been organizing workshops and courses to encourage the younger generation to keep this tradition alive. 

Sword and janbiya making 

The crafting of weaponry is another centuries-old skill that is being preserved in various areas of the Kingdom. The Najran region, in particular, is famed for producing some of the most stunning ornamental swords and janbiya (short, curved daggers). What were once necessities for desert tribesmen are now generally for decoration only, but the artistry required to produce them remains the same and is a source of great pride in the Kingdom and the wider Arabian Gulf. The daggers are generally “made from iron, with handles of animal horn, often adorned with silver or gold,” according to a recent SPA report. Carvings on the hilts and sheaths are often used to depict the owner’s tribal background. The finest examples can cost thousands of dollars. 


‘Dubai Bling’ season 3: A rollercoaster of drama, fashion and unfinished business 

‘Dubai Bling’ season 3: A rollercoaster of drama, fashion and unfinished business 
Updated 17 January 2025
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‘Dubai Bling’ season 3: A rollercoaster of drama, fashion and unfinished business 

‘Dubai Bling’ season 3: A rollercoaster of drama, fashion and unfinished business 

DUBAI: Here we go again. It’s season three of “Dubai Bling,” featuring jaw-dropping opulence from the extravagant lives of the rich and sort-of famous. And from the very first episode, the drama is ramped up with the kind of intriguing revelations that keep viewers hooked. 

The new season features returning cast members Loujain Adada, Zeina Khoury, Mona Kattan, Ebraheem Al-Samadi, Safa and Fahad Siddiqui, Farhana Bodi, and Marwan Al-Awadhi (aka DJ Bliss) and his wife Danya Mohammed. Media personality Mahira Abdel Aziz and Iraqi singer and actress Jwana Karim are new faces, bringing fresh energy and conflict, particularly as the latter already has history with a couple of the regulars. 

One of this season’s standout moments is Safa’s quirky farewell party for her car. She also showcases her playful personality by bringing her daughters to her office and setting up a ball pit. Mother and daughters all wear coordinated outfits, complete with matching heels.  

Safa’s humor and charisma once again shine through, making her one of the most entertaining personalities on the show. 

This season also delves deeper into DJ Bliss and Mohammed’s journey to improve their marriage and wraps up a few long-running conflicts, including Khoury, Safa and Bodi’s ongoing tensions, and Adada and Karim’s years-long fight. Although it then leaves viewers hanging on a few other issues, so it’s safe to assume we’ll see a fourth season. 

Often, though, the show’s emotional arcs feel overly staged (even by reality TV’s standards). It’s not always clear that these people are really friends, rather than unconvincing actors playing friends. Al-Samadi’s hijacking of a pregnancy announcement, for example, seems wholly contrived in order to provoke a reaction. 

Visually, at least, the show remains stunning, showcasing high-end fashion, striking makeup, and sculpted hairstyles. Every frame is luxurious.  

Ultimately, “Dubai Bling” offers entertaining escapism. Fans will once again enjoy the glitzy aspirational glamor, but those seeking authenticity should look elsewhere. 


Saudi author Samya Al-Harbi discusses new book ‘Not Like Other Women’ 

Saudi author Samya Al-Harbi discusses new book ‘Not Like Other Women’ 
Updated 17 January 2025
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Saudi author Samya Al-Harbi discusses new book ‘Not Like Other Women’ 

Saudi author Samya Al-Harbi discusses new book ‘Not Like Other Women’ 
  • The Saudi entrepreneur has compiled the inspirational stories of 12 Arab women  

DUBAI: Dubai-based Saudi entrepreneur and author Samya Al-Harbi tells the stories of resilient Arab women, including herself, in her new book “Not Like Other Women.” 

“The women around me have inspired me. Friends, colleagues, family, women I met in my work, in my troubles. I believe every woman has a story,” Al-Harbi tells Arab News. 

“(My book) talks about women who have struggled in life and faced so many difficulties, and they overcome those struggles and difficulties, and they become wiser. These are women who have really challenged themselves to become stronger.” 

“Not Like Other Women” is by Samya Al-Harbi. (Supplied)

“Not Like Other Women” features 12 stories of such women interspersed with Al-Harbi’s own experiences of balancing her personal and professional life. One of the most emotional and challenging chapters to write, she says, was “Munifa.” 

“The story was very emotional for me because I always thought Munifa was my friend’s mother and never doubted it. But on the night of her funeral, I found out she wasn’t his real mother; she was actually his mother’s neighbor and best friend. What touched me the most was the strong friendship between the two women and the loyalty they showed to each other. It’s a bond that truly moved me.” 

When asked if there was any pushback when it came to telling these personal stories, Al-Harbi is quick to point out that, in fact, the opposite happened. 

“There are women who want to tell the world their story. Society doesn’t accept discussion of sensitive issues when it comes to women and their feelings, especially in the Arab world,” she says. “So, they always need women who have the ability to take their stories to an audience and tell them that there are women who face these problems, but fight to overcome them.  

Samya Al-Harbi. (Supplied)

“As a woman, as a mother — as a grandmother now — I believe that, with the position I have now, it's my responsibility to talk about these issues.” 

While putting the stories together for “Not Like Other Women,” Al-Harbi noticed a common thread. “I have traveled a lot, and I have seen so many women in different cultures and countries,” she says. “I noticed that we share most of these issues. If I'm talking about a lady in China, she has the same problems as a lady in Africa. We have certain problems in common, whether it is finance, respect, passion… These problems remain the same no matter where we are from.” 

As an example, Al-Harbi pointed out Indian-American author Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni’s “The Palace of Illusions,” a retelling of the Indian epic “Mahabharat,” from the point of view of Panchaali, the wife of the legendary Pandava brothers. 

“The message I got from her book is that women are facing the same problems they did 3,000 years ago. Still. We are being treated the same way. So, will that change? I don't think so. Yes, it's not like before, and yes, it will take time. But still there are women afraid to come out and express their feelings or talk about their issues. In fact, when I gave these stories to the publisher, there were three that they deleted. They said, ‘No, you cannot publish these stories because they’re very sensitive, and society will not accept this kind of story yet.’” 

The Makkah-born businesswoman, who also acts as a mentor to up-and-coming entrepreneurs, said she has one piece of advice for all the young women she speaks to, including her daughters.  

“They have to keep on dreaming, but, at the same time, they have to work on their dreams,” she says. “They should not listen to anyone if they believe that what they are doing is right for them and for other people — without crossing the line, especially here in the Arab world.” 


‘La Haine’: 30 years after release, film’s depiction of urban Parisian struggle still starkly relevant

‘La Haine’: 30 years after release,  film’s depiction of urban Parisian struggle still starkly relevant
Updated 16 January 2025
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‘La Haine’: 30 years after release, film’s depiction of urban Parisian struggle still starkly relevant

‘La Haine’: 30 years after release,  film’s depiction of urban Parisian struggle still starkly relevant

La Haine (1995)

Mathieu Kassovitz’s “La Haine” is a gripping and raw exploration of social alienation, systemic inequality and the simmering tensions within the marginalized suburbs of Paris. Released in 1995, the film remains a starkly relevant examination of urban discontent and a powerful critique of the societal structures that perpetuate cycles of violence and despair.

Set over 24 hours in the lives of three young men — Vinz (Vincent Cassel), Said (Said Taghmaoui) and Hubert (Hubert Kounde) — the film captures the aftermath of a violent riot sparked by police brutality. As they navigate the streets of their impoverished banlieue, their stories intertwine to reveal the frustrations, dreams and anger that define their existence. Through their perspectives, Kassovitz crafts an intimate yet universal portrait of disenfranchised youth and the volatile relationship between marginalized communities and authority.

Shot in stark black-and-white, the cinematography underscores the bleakness of the trio’s environment while lending the film a timeless quality. The visual aesthetic, coupled with Kassovitz’s tight direction, creates a visceral sense of tension that permeates every scene. The use of long takes and dynamic camerawork immerses viewers in the characters’ world, capturing both its oppressive monotony and moments of unexpected beauty.

What makes “La Haine” so impactful is its ability to balance social commentary with deeply human storytelling. Each of the three protagonists represents a different response to their shared reality: Vinz is angry and impulsive, seeking vengeance; Hubert is introspective, yearning to escape through boxing; and Said, the joker, tries to diffuse the tension with humor. Together, they form a complex and relatable dynamic, reflecting the diverse ways people cope with systemic oppression.

The film does not offer easy solutions or didactic moralizing; instead, it forces viewers to confront uncomfortable truths. Kassovitz examines the cyclical nature of violence and its roots in economic disparity, racism and institutional neglect. The tension between the characters’ personal agency and the societal forces that constrain them creates a narrative that is as thought-provoking as it is emotionally resonant.

Nearly three decades after its release, “La Haine” remains a cinematic landmark.


Inside ‘States of Light,’ Princess Reem Al Faisal’s photography exhibition  

Inside ‘States of Light,’ Princess Reem Al Faisal’s photography exhibition  
Updated 16 January 2025
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Inside ‘States of Light,’ Princess Reem Al Faisal’s photography exhibition  

Inside ‘States of Light,’ Princess Reem Al Faisal’s photography exhibition  
  • The acclaimed photographer discusses her black-and-white imagery and her upcoming shift to color 

RIYADH: Over the past two months, a collection of black-and-white photographs taken by Princess Reem Mohammed Al-Faisal, granddaughter of the late King Faisal, has been on display at Riyadh’s L’Art Pur Foundation.  

“States of Light,” according to a press release “explores the intersection of existence, reality and the Divine.” Through her lens, Princess Reem masterfully captures the interplay between light and shadow, transforming simple moments into meditative and poetic reflections on life, spirituality, and human connection. The exhibition, curated by Christiane Ashkar and Mohammed Al Shammaery, runs until Jan. 30. 

A collection of black-and-white photographs taken by Princess Reem Mohammed Al-Faisal, granddaughter of the late King Faisal, has been on display at Riyadh’s L’Art Pur Foundation. (Supplied)

The show invites visitors on an evocative journey beginning in Jeddah at the Islamic Port — Saudi Arabia’s maritime gateway to its sacred sites — and moving through Makkah and Madinah to key locations such as Mina, Mount Arafat, Muzdalifah, the Jamarat, and the Grand Mosque. These photographs not only capture the physical spaces but also convey the atmosphere at these holy sites, allowing viewers to reflect on the sacred in the everyday. 

Art critic Laetitia Guillemin describes Princess Reem’s imagery like this: “A muffled sound, an outspoken whisper: in each image, half-lights tell a story, carrying away the voices of inner silence.”  

Princess Reem Al-Faisal at the opening of ‘States of Light.’ (Supplied)

Guillemin highlights the way Princess Reem uses light to evoke emotions and inner thoughts, revealing moments of stillness and contemplation through the simplicity of black-and-white photography. In her work, the half-light is not just a technical feature but a symbolic element that invites the viewer into a deeper space of meditation. 

“In our modern culture, we have been trained to focus upon the physical, although we see through our mind, will, and emotion. There is a spiritual dimension that is expressed through beauty and creativity. This is what I try to achieve for myself through my work,” Princess Reem has previously said. Her photography is not just about capturing an image, but about translating the unseen. “Art without spirituality is not art; it is decoration,” Princess Reem says. “The essence of life, of the human being, is spiritual.  

She describes Arabic poetry and “the rich imagery it contains” as her greatest inspiration. “Photography is a modern form of poetry, and I use it to condense complex philosophical ideas into a single image,” she says.  

“States of Light” features images from her international travels — including China, Egypt, Italy, Japan, Morocco, Syria, and the United States. (Supplied)

“States of Light” features images from her international travels — including China, Egypt, Italy, Japan, Morocco, Syria, and the United States — but it is in her depiction of the pilgrimage sites in Makkah and Madinah where the depth of her spiritual engagement is most evident. Her photographs convey not just the architectural grandeur of these locations but their profound spirituality. Through the careful manipulation of light, Princess Reem captures meditative moments of prayer and contemplation, where time seems to stand still. 

Princess Reem’s exhibition is not just a collection of photographs; it is a meditation on the eternal, a dialogue between the material and the spiritual, and a reflection of her deep-rooted connection to her cultural and spiritual heritage. As her photographs explore the divine in the everyday, they invite viewers to contemplate their own relationship with the eternal and the unseen. The absence of color invites the viewer to focus on the essence of the scene, devoid of distractions. “Black-and-white is metaphysical. It gives you the metaphysical side of art,” says Princess Reem. “People can get distracted by color and forget about the image itself, but a black-and-white photograph forces people to focus.”  

And in an era dominated by digital photography, Princess Reem remains committed to using traditional film. “99 percent of my work is on film,” she says. “The depth, the rendition of the shades, the textures… all of this is far more superior in film.”  

Despite her passion for black-and-white imagery, Princess Reem says she is currently working on a new series of color images.  

“I’ve been going around photographing Saudi Arabia in color. It will be my new focus. Currently, it’s just Saudi Arabia, but maybe other countries in the future. What I find fascinating is that color photography changes my perspective,” she says. “In black and white, my focus was on shades, shadows, and light. But (now), the color itself becomes the subject. It’s fascinating, and it’s beautiful. This shift has completely changed my approach to photography.” 

Whether photographing in black and white or in color, however, Princess Reem stresses that, first and foremost, her focus is on creating work that expresses something meaningful, not on creating something that will sell. A true artist, she emphasizes, should not be motivated by money, but by a deeper calling.  

“If my work doesn’t cost $10,000 a piece, then (people say) my work has no value,” she says. “But the concept that art is (just) a career is totally wrong.”