In South Africa, Madiba shirts keep Mandela’s legacy alive

In South Africa, Madiba shirts keep Mandela’s legacy alive
A general view of some of the latest designs of Sonwabile Ndamase, who used to design and style for the late former President of South Africa Nelson Mandela and the designer of the original Madiba shirt, in his studio in Johannesburg on July 4, 2024. (AFP)
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Updated 12 July 2024
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In South Africa, Madiba shirts keep Mandela’s legacy alive

In South Africa, Madiba shirts keep Mandela’s legacy alive
  • Sonwabile Ndamas proud that the Madiba shirts he designed for Nelson Mandela 30 years ago endure as a legacy of South Africa’s first democratically elected leader

JOHANNESBURG: In his workshop stocked with piles of fabric and sewing machines, Sonwabile Ndamase is proud that the Madiba shirts he designed for Nelson Mandela 30 years ago endure as a legacy of South Africa’s first democratically elected leader.
Worn untucked and without a jacket, the loose Madiba shirts remain a favorite among South African politicians, making a statement 10 years after Mandela’s death.
Madiba is the clan name by which Mandela is known in South Africa.
Ndamase’s clients include South Africa’s current president, Cyril Ramaphosa, as well as his predecessors, Thabo Mbeki and Jacob Zuma. The country’s political and business elite — including ministers, government spokesmen and local politicians — regularly place orders.
Even former US president Bill Clinton and boxing great Mike Tyson have a Madiba shirt.
“Anybody who wants to live a Mandela legacy or who wants to live Mandela ethos in life, guess what they are doing? They will go and pick up Madiba shirts,” Ndamase told AFP.
The jovial 64-year-old designer recalls when he was contacted by Winnie Mandela soon after the apartheid government released her husband from prison in 1990.
Having spent 27 years in jail, the hero of the fight against white-minority rule and South Africa’s soon-to-be president needed new clothes.
Ndamase met Mandela in his home Johannesburg’s Soweto. “He started to tell me that he wanted something that could look conservative enough for him to go and address the captains of industry and... then also to address the masses without having to change,” he said.
Mandela wanted a style that would make him stand out among other statesmen and did not require a tie.
The self-taught designer came up with the loose-fitting, casual-but-smart silk shirts with bold patterns that are associated with Mandela even after his death in 2013 at the age of 95.
The shirts often feature oriental-style patterns. Some boast deep colors such as burgundy, dark grey and royal blue, with playful designs; others are of cooler, tan hues, depicting elements from nature like leaves or twigs.
All are recognizable as the signature Mandela look. It is a style that Ndamase, who suffered a mild stroke in March 2024, is passing on to a new generation of garment-makers.
The jocular designer — whose perfect impersonation of Mandela is a testament to their time spent together — is taking his know-how to New York in September when he will host a masterclass for young designers.
On the same trip, he will showcase his Vukani brand’s new collection at an event for celebrity and elite buyers that will pay tribute to the 30 years of democracy since South Africa’s first all-race election in 1994.
The collection takes on a more casual, loungewear aesthetic, a breakaway from his usual style, Ndamase said. The occasion will feature in a documentary by a US-based filmmaker about his career.
Sporting a grey goatee, Ndamase laughs off the many other designers who claim to have pioneered the Madiba shirt or sell versions resembling his own, which today cost around 1,800 rand ($90) apiece.
Once described by the late Winnie Mandela as “part of the furniture,” he says never wanted to use the Mandela name commercial purposes. “I dressed one generation to another,” he said. “The relationship I had was a family relationship.”
Born in the Mdantsane township on the southeastern coast, Ndamase still spends time behind the sewing machine in his Johannesburg workshop.
“It’s a dream come true,” he said, squinting at shirt he is working on. “It’s a legacy collection,” he said, pointing to a T-shirt from the new range that is emblazoned “BE THE LEGACY” and features a famous silhouette of Nelson and Winnie Mandela walking free in 1990.


Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan home from hospital days after knife attack by intruder

Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan home from hospital days after knife attack by intruder
Updated 10 sec ago
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Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan home from hospital days after knife attack by intruder

Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan home from hospital days after knife attack by intruder
  • Khan, 54, was stabbed six times by intruder during attempted burglary at home on Thursday
  • Indian police arrested suspect thought to be Bangladeshi national in connection with attack

MUMBAI: Bollywood actor Saif Ali Khan left a hospital in India’s financial capital Mumbai on Tuesday, less than a week after he suffered knife injuries in a scuffle with an intruder at his house, local media reported.
Khan, 54, was stabbed six times by the intruder during an attempted burglary at his home after midnight on Thursday. He had surgery after sustaining stab wounds to his spine, neck and hands, doctors said.
Khan was discharged from hospital on Tuesday afternoon. He smiled at TV cameras from his car and waved his bandaged hand.
On Sunday, police arrested a man, thought to be a citizen of Bangladesh, in connection with the attack and were continuing to investigate the crime.
The suspect, arrested on the outskirts of Mumbai, was using the name Vijay Das, but is believed to be Mohammad Shariful Islam Shehzad, who was working with a housekeeping agency after having come to the city five or six months ago, Dikshit Gedam, a deputy commissioner of police, told a press conference.
The attack on Khan shocked residents of Mumbai as well as fellow Bollywood actors, especially because it took place in an upscale neighborhood of the city, in an apartment block that is strictly guarded.


Scholz cautiously optimistic on US-German partnership after first Trump talks

Scholz cautiously optimistic on US-German partnership after first Trump talks
Updated 18 min 7 sec ago
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Scholz cautiously optimistic on US-German partnership after first Trump talks

Scholz cautiously optimistic on US-German partnership after first Trump talks
  • “The United States is our closest ally outside Europe,” Scholz said
  • Speaking on the first full day of Trump’s new term in office, Scholz said cooperation between Europe and the US was key for peace and security worldwide

DAVOS: Chancellor Olaf Scholz voiced cautious optimism on Tuesday on the potential for German-US relations under President Donald Trump, citing good first talks with his administration, and stressed that cooperation was key for peace and prosperity.
“The United States is our closest ally outside Europe. And I will do everything in my power to ensure that it stays that way,” Scholz said in a speech at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland.
“My first good conversations with President Trump and also the contacts between our advisers point in this direction,” he added.
Speaking on the first full day of Trump’s new term in office, Scholz said cooperation between Europe and the United States was key for peace and security worldwide as well as economic progress.
However, the German chancellor added that Europe must become more self-reliant.
Germany’s ambassador to Washington has warned internally of turbulent relations under Trump while German companies have sounded the alarm over threatened tariffs under the new US administration.


Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls

Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls
Updated 27 min 29 sec ago
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Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls

Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls
  • More than 1.1 million girls have been denied access to formal education since 2021
  • Stanikzai headed Taliban team in talks that led to withdrawal of foreign troops from Afghanistan

KABUL:A senior Taliban official has called on his leadership to scrap education bans on Afghan women and girls, a move that experts said on Tuesday voiced the public’s concerns and marked a new phenomenon for Afghanistan’s current regime.

Sher Mohammad Abbas Stanikzai, Afghanistan’s acting deputy foreign minister, said in a speech over the weekend that the Taliban’s restrictions on girls’ and women’s education were not in line with Islamic Shariah law.

“Our expectation from the leaders of the Islamic Emirate is to open the doors of education. There is no excuse for this, and there never will be one,” Stanikzai said at an event in the Khost province.

Around 1.1 million girls have been denied access to formal education since September 2021, when the Taliban suspended secondary schools for girls.

It is part of a series of curbs that, in the three years since the Taliban took power, have increasingly restricted women’s access to education, the workplace and public spaces.

“In our population of 40 million, we are committing injustice against 20 million … The entire world is opposing us because of this problem. They criticize us for this same matter. The path we are currently following stems from personal attitudes, not Shariah.”

Stanikzai was the leader of a team of negotiators at the Taliban’s political office in Doha for talks that led to the complete withdrawal of US-led forces from Afghanistan in 2021.

His latest remarks were one of the strongest public rebukes of a government policy that has furthered the international isolation of the Taliban.

“In Afghanistan, women’s rights are being taken away in the name of Islam. As Stanikzai … said, the decision to stop girls’ education is a matter of the nature of the Taliban, not a matter of Shariah. This is only a rural and tribal view that they present,” Ziaulhaq Amarkhil, senior adviser to the former president of Afghanistan, told Arab News.

“The issue that Mr. Stanikzai discussed is the voice of every Afghan and every Muslim. Women should be granted their rights. They should be allowed to study and get higher education.”

Amarkhil said if the current education ban were to continue, there would be grave consequences in Afghanistan.

“After 12 years, we will not have a single female doctor in the country because those who are there will not be able to continue working due to their age and the new generation will not be educated, or they will leave the country,” he said.

Stanikzai’s criticism was “significant,” said Kabul-based political expert Tameem Bahiss,

as it marked one of the first times that a senior member of the Taliban publicly criticized the supreme leader, Hibatullah Akhundzada.

Similar criticisms have also come from Taliban’s acting Interior Minister Sirajuddin Haqqani, who in 2023 made veiled remarks against Akhundzada on “monopolizing” power and “damaging the government” in Afghanistan.

“Publicly criticizing the leader’s decisions is a new phenomenon within the Taliban. Until now, we haven’t seen criticism of this magnitude,” Bahiss told Arab News.

“If criticism from a Taliban leader of such stature continues to grow, it will undoubtedly put significant pressure on Sheikh Hibatullah.”

Bahiss highlighted how Stanikzai had challenged Akhundzada’s decision by saying that the education policy reflected the leader’s personal sentiment, rather than being based on Islamic law.

“Such voices within the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan are crucial as it transitions from an insurgency to a governing entity. Important decisions regarding the people’s affairs should involve all leaders’ input,” Bahiss said.

“We are seeing that such voices garner significant support, not only from the people of Afghanistan but also from within the Taliban ranks.”

With this new development within the Taliban and given Stanikzai’s status in the group, Bahiss said Akhundzada may tolerate the criticism.

“If this happens, it could encourage other leaders to publicly challenge Hibatullah’s decision to ban schools, potentially putting significant pressure on him and leading to the removal of the ban,” he said.


Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls

Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls
Updated 26 min 37 sec ago
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Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls

Senior Taliban official urges leadership to lift education ban on Afghan girls
  • More than 1.1 million girls have been denied access to formal education since 2021
  • Stanikzai headed the Taliban team in talks that led to complete withdrawal of foreign troops from Afghanistan

KABUL: A senior Taliban official has called on his leadership to scrap education bans on Afghan women and girls, a move that experts said on Tuesday voiced the public’s concerns and marked a new phenomenon for Afghanistan’s current regime.

Sher Mohammad Abbas Stanikzai, Afghanistan’s acting deputy foreign minister, said in a speech over the weekend that the Taliban’s restrictions on girls’ and women’s education were not in line with Islamic Shariah law.

“Our expectation from the leaders of the Islamic Emirate is to open the doors of education. There is no excuse for this, and there never will be one,” Stanikzai said at an event in the Khost province.

Around 1.1 million girls have been denied access to formal education since September 2021, when the Taliban suspended secondary schools for girls.

It is part of a series of curbs that, in the three years since the Taliban took power, have increasingly restricted women’s access to education, the workplace and public spaces.

“In our population of 40 million, we are committing injustice against 20 million … The entire world is opposing us because of this problem. They criticize us for this same matter. The path we are currently following stems from personal attitudes, not Shariah.”

Stanikzai was the leader of a team of negotiators at the Taliban’s political office in Doha for talks that led to the complete withdrawal of US-led forces from Afghanistan in 2021.

His latest remarks were one of the strongest public rebukes of a government policy that has furthered the international isolation of the Taliban.

“In Afghanistan, women’s rights are being taken away in the name of Islam. As Stanikzai … said, the decision to stop girls’ education is a matter of the nature of the Taliban, not a matter of Shariah. This is only a rural and tribal view that they present,” Ziaulhaq Amarkhil, senior advisor to the former president of Afghanistan, told Arab News.

“The issue that Mr. Stanikzai discussed is the voice of every Afghan and every Muslim. Women should be granted their rights. They should be allowed to study and get higher education.”

Amarkhil said if the current education ban were to continue, there would be grave consequences in Afghanistan.

“After 12 years, we will not have a single female doctor in the country because those who are there will not be able to continue working due to their age and the new generation will not be educated, or they will leave the country,” he said.

Stanikzai’s criticism was “significant,” said Kabul-based political expert Tameem Bahiss, as it marked one of the first times that a senior member of the Taliban publicly criticized the supreme leader, Hibatullah Akhundzada.

Similar criticisms have also come from Taliban’s acting Interior Minister Sirajuddin Haqqani, who in 2023 made veiled remarks against Akhundzada on “monopolizing” power and “damaging the government” in Afghanistan.

“Publicly criticizing the leader’s decisions is a new phenomenon within the Taliban. Until now, we haven’t seen criticism of this magnitude,” Bahiss told Arab News.

“If criticism from a Taliban leader of such stature continues to grow, it will undoubtedly put significant pressure on Sheikh Hibatullah.”

Bahiss highlighted how Stanikzai had challenged Akhundzada’s decision by saying that the education policy reflected the leader’s personal sentiment, rather than being based on Islamic law.

“Such voices within the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan are crucial as it transitions from an insurgency to a governing entity. Important decisions regarding the people’s affairs should involve all leaders’ input,” Bahiss said.

“We are seeing that such voices garner significant support, not only from the people of Afghanistan but also from within the Taliban ranks.”

With this new development within the Taliban and given Stanikzai’s status in the group, Bahiss said Akhundzada may tolerate the criticism.

“If this happens, it could encourage other leaders to publicly challenge Hibatullah’s decision to ban schools, potentially putting significant pressure on him and leading to the removal of the ban,” he said.


As defense ties strengthen, US assesses Cyprus base

As defense ties strengthen, US assesses Cyprus base
Updated 21 January 2025
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As defense ties strengthen, US assesses Cyprus base

As defense ties strengthen, US assesses Cyprus base
  • The assessment will take place at a military base in the western district of Paphos
  • European Union member Cyprus has played a central role in evacuating civilians from the region

NICOSIA: A military assessment team from the United States will be in Cyprus this week as part of defense upgrades, Cypriot officials said on Tuesday, following an announcement from Washington of cooperation with the Mediterranean island.
The evaluation team, based in Germany, would provide know-how and recommendations on infrastructure projects to enhance interoperability with the United States and other partners, Government Spokesperson Konstantinos Letymbiotis said.
“The upgrading of infrastructure, the supply of modern means and the investment in training are key pillars of our national strategy for an effective and flexible defense,” Letymbiotis told a news briefing.
The assessment will take place at a military base in the western district of Paphos.
Strategically perched on the edge of the volatile Middle East, European Union member Cyprus has played a central role in evacuating civilians from the region during the many flare-ups in tensions.
Last year, it established a humanitarian aid corridor to Gaza, where a ceasefire deal came into effect on Sunday.
Relations between the US and Cyprus have grown closer in recent years and are closely followed by Turkiye, which invaded Cyprus’s northern third in 1974 after a brief Greek inspired coup. Both Türkiye and the breakaway Turkish Cypriot state it supports in north Cyprus have criticized cooperation.
Part of the assessment will look at the potential to upgrade landing facilities at the air base to allow for large-scale evacuation operations from the region if needed, a source with knowledge of the matter told Reuters.
The source asked not to be named because they were not authorized to speak to the media.